The Teardrop Brilliant

Pear Cut

The elegant teardrop — combining the brilliance of a round with the dramatic point of a marquise. One of the most versatile and flattering diamond shapes, excelling in rings, pendants, and earrings.

Brilliance Meets Drama

The pear cut — also known as the teardrop or pendeloque — is a hybrid shape combining the round brilliant's top half with a marquise's pointed end. This creates a uniquely elegant silhouette that has adorned royalty and celebrities for over five centuries.

With 56-58 brilliant-style facets, the pear delivers excellent fire and scintillation while its elongated outline provides a dramatic, finger-flattering presence. The asymmetric shape — rounded on one end, pointed on the other — creates visual interest that symmetric shapes cannot match.

Pear cuts are exceptionally versatile: worn point-up in solitaire rings for maximum finger elongation, point-down in pendants for classic elegance, or as matched pairs in earrings where their teardrop silhouette is most naturally flattering.

Pear Cut Diamond
1475
Year of Invention
56-58
Brilliant Facets
10-15%
Larger Face-Up Than Round

Lodewyk van Berquem (1475)

The pear shape is one of the oldest fancy cuts, attributed to Flemish diamond polisher Lodewyk van Berquem around 1475. Van Berquem is also credited with inventing the scaif — the polishing wheel that revolutionized diamond cutting — making the pear cut one of the first shapes to benefit from this technological leap.

The shape gained royal favor throughout Europe, adorning crowns, brooches, and pendants. Its teardrop silhouette was considered deeply symbolic — representing tears of joy, devotion, and the eternal nature of love.

Notable pear-shaped diamonds include the Cullinan I (Great Star of Africa, 530.20 carats), the Millennium Star (203.04 carats), and the Taylor-Burton Diamond (69.42 carats) — demonstrating the shape's capacity for extraordinary presence at any scale.

Facet Structure & Symmetry

The pear cut's 56-58 brilliant-style facets are arranged similarly to a round brilliant, adapted to the teardrop outline. Critical symmetry requirements include:

  • Point alignment: The point must align perfectly with the center of the rounded end
  • Wing symmetry: Both curved sides (wings) must mirror each other exactly
  • Shoulder balance: The transition from curve to point must be smooth and even on both sides
  • Point integrity: The point should be sharp and well-defined, not blunted or chipped

Symmetry is paramount in pear cuts — even slight asymmetry is immediately visible due to the shape's directional nature. This is why expert cutting evaluation matters more than in symmetric shapes.

Understanding and Minimizing Bowtie

Nearly all pear cuts exhibit some degree of "bowtie" — a dark area across the widest part of the stone caused by the viewer's head blocking light. The key is managing it:

  • Minimal bowtie: Barely visible; ideal. Achieved through precise pavilion angles and facet alignment
  • Moderate bowtie: Noticeable but not distracting. Acceptable in otherwise well-cut stones
  • Severe bowtie: Dark band dominates the center. Avoid — indicates poor proportions

Bowtie cannot be evaluated from a GIA report — it requires visual inspection or high-quality photography. This is one reason expert evaluation is essential for pear cuts.

Key Proportions

  • Table: 54-58% optimal
  • Depth: 58-64%
  • Polish/Symmetry: Excellent/Excellent minimum (symmetry especially critical)
1.45–1.55

Classic Pear

The most balanced proportion. Elegant without being extreme. Best for rings.

1.55–1.75

Elongated Pear

More dramatic silhouette. Maximizes finger elongation. Excellent for pendants and earrings.

1.25–1.45

Wider Pear

Fuller, more rounded appearance. Creates substantial presence. Some prefer this for solitaire rings.

Unique

Distinctive Silhouette

The asymmetric teardrop stands apart from every other shape. Unmistakable presence that makes a statement.

Versatile

Rings, Pendants, Earrings

The only shape that excels equally in all three jewelry applications. Matched pairs for earrings are particularly stunning.

Flattering

Elongates the Finger

Worn point-up, the pear creates maximum finger elongation. 10-15% larger face-up than rounds of equivalent weight.

Fancy Colors

Beautiful Color Display

Color concentrates naturally at the point, creating a gradient effect that can enhance perceived saturation. Popular for pinks and yellows.

Our Pear Cut Standards

  • Minimal bowtie verified through visual inspection and imaging
  • Perfect symmetry — point alignment, wing balance, shoulder evenness
  • GIA certified with Excellent polish and symmetry
  • Expert evaluation by Brian Gavin for light performance and cut quality
  • Protective setting guidance — the point requires secure prong protection

Each Shape Tells a Different Story

  • Round Brilliant — Maximum brilliance; The Gavin Effect® patented cut
  • Emerald Cut — Sophisticated step-cut elegance; patented light performance
  • Cushion Cut — Romantic pillow shape; patented Hearts & Arrows precision
  • Oval Cut — Elongated brilliance; appears larger for carat weight
  • Pear Cut — Elegant teardrop; versatile and flattering
  • Radiant Cut — Brilliant fire meets geometric outline
  • Princess Cut — Modern square brilliant; exceptional scintillation
  • Marquise Cut — Royal heritage; maximizes carat weight appearance
  • Old Mine Cut — Historic hand-cut diamonds; antique brilliance

Schedule a Private Consultation

Pear cuts require careful evaluation for bowtie, symmetry, and point integrity — factors that GIA reports cannot capture. Expert guidance ensures you select a stone that performs beautifully.

Schedule Your Private Consultation

All consultations are complimentary and without obligation. We build long-term relationships based on education, trust, and exceptional service.