Pear Cut

Brilliance Meets Drama

The pear cut — also known as the teardrop or pendeloque — is a hybrid shape combining the round brilliant's rounded end with a marquise's pointed end. The result is an elegant silhouette that has adorned royalty and celebrated jewels for centuries.

With 56–58 brilliant-style facets, the pear delivers lively fire and scintillation, while its elongated outline gives a dramatic, finger-flattering presence. The asymmetric shape — rounded at one end, pointed at the other — creates visual interest that symmetrical shapes don't.

Pear cuts are exceptionally versatile: worn point-up in solitaire rings for finger elongation, point-down in pendants for classic elegance, or as matched pairs in earrings where the teardrop silhouette is most naturally flattering.

Lodewyk van Berquem (c. 1475)

The pear is one of the oldest fancy shapes. Tradition attributes it to the Flemish polisher Lodewyk van Berquem of Bruges, around 1475, and also credits him with popularising the scaif — the iron polishing wheel charged with diamond dust that allowed facets to be placed with far greater precision. Historians treat much of the van Berquem story as tradition rather than documented fact, but the pear was certainly among the earliest shapes to benefit from wheel polishing.

The shape gained royal favor throughout Europe, adorning crowns, brooches, and pendants. Its teardrop silhouette was often read as a symbol of tears of joy and devotion.

Notable pear-shaped diamonds include the Cullinan I (Great Star of Africa, 530.20 carats), the Millennium Star (203.04 carats), and the Taylor-Burton Diamond (69.42 carats). You can read about these and other landmark stones in our legendary diamonds guide.

Facet Structure & Symmetry

The pear cut's 56–58 brilliant-style facets are arranged much like a round brilliant's, adapted to the teardrop outline. Critical symmetry requirements include:

• Point alignment: The point should align with the center of the rounded end
• Wing symmetry: Both curved sides (wings) should mirror each other
• Shoulder balance: The transition from curve to point should be smooth and even on both sides
• Point integrity: The point should be crisp and well-defined, not blunted or chipped

Symmetry matters enormously in pear cuts — even slight asymmetry is easy to see because of the shape's directional outline. This is why expert cut evaluation matters more here than in symmetrical shapes.

Understanding and Minimizing Bowtie

Most pear cuts show some degree of "bowtie" — a darker area across the widest part of the stone where the pavilion returns less light to the eye. The key is managing it:

• Minimal bowtie: Barely visible; ideal. Achieved through precise pavilion angles and facet alignment
• Moderate bowtie: Noticeable but not distracting. Acceptable in otherwise well-cut stones
• Severe bowtie: Dark band dominates the center. Best avoided — it indicates poor proportions

Bowtie can't be judged from a GIA report — it needs visual inspection, good photography and video, or ASET imaging, which maps where a diamond leaks or returns light. This is one reason expert evaluation matters for pear cuts.

Key Proportions

Typical guideline ranges:

• Table: about 54–58%
• Depth: about 58–64%
• Polish/Symmetry: Excellent/Excellent minimum (symmetry especially critical)

Our Pear Cut Standards

• ✓ Minimal bowtie verified through visual inspection and imaging
• ✓ Precise symmetry — point alignment, wing balance, shoulder evenness
• ✓ GIA certified with Excellent polish and symmetry
• ✓ Expert evaluation by Brian Gavin for light performance and cut quality
• ✓ Protective setting guidance — the point needs secure prong protection (see our diamond care guide)

Each Shape Tells a Different Story

• Round Brilliant — Maximum brilliance; The Gavin Effect® patented cut
• Emerald Cut — Sophisticated step-cut elegance; patented light performance
• Cushion Cut — Romantic pillow shape; patented Hearts & Arrows precision
• Oval Cut — Elongated brilliance; appears larger for carat weight
• Radiant Cut — Brilliant fire meets geometric outline
• Princess Cut — Modern square brilliant; exceptional scintillation
• Marquise Cut — Royal heritage; maximizes carat weight appearance
• Old Mine Cut — Historic hand-cut diamonds; antique brilliance

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