Oval Cut

Modern Brilliance, Classic Elegance

The oval cut is a modified brilliant that combines the round brilliant's light performance with an elongated silhouette. Because more of its weight sits in the visible outline, an oval generally looks larger face-up than a round of the same carat weight. That visual efficiency, combined with brilliant-style fire and scintillation, has made the oval one of the most requested shapes of recent years.

Russian-born cutter Lazare Kaplan is widely credited with developing the modern oval brilliant in 1957. The shape suits elongated rough crystals, which would lose more weight if cut into rounds, while keeping brilliant-style optics. The result offers more visual presence per carat, with light performance that approaches the round brilliant when expertly cut.

Lazare Kaplan's Innovation

Lazare Kaplan, a master cutter who founded Lazare Kaplan & Sons in New York, is credited with the modern oval in the late 1950s. His insight was that elongated rough — which loses significant weight when cut into rounds — could be fashioned into ovals with less waste and brilliant-cut performance.

The oval gained acceptance for its flattering proportions and efficient use of rough, and became a favorite for larger stones where the elongated shape gives maximum visual impact. Today it is one of the most requested engagement ring shapes, driven by its finger coverage and strong light performance.

Modified Round Brilliant

The oval's 56–58 facets follow the round brilliant arrangement adapted to an elliptical outline. The faceting is the same in principle — kite-shaped crown facets, triangular star facets, pavilion mains, and lower girdle facets — delivering the same optical effects: brilliance, fire, and scintillation.

Critical to oval quality is the evenness of the ellipse. Both halves should be symmetrical, with even curvature and no flat spots or bulges. The "shoulders" (widest points) should sit at the midpoint, creating balanced visual weight.

Managing the Oval's Primary Challenge

Like pear and marquise cuts, ovals can display a "bowtie" — a dark area across the center where the pavilion returns less light to the eye from certain angles. Its severity depends largely on cutting quality:

• Well-cut ovals: Minimal bowtie that adds contrast and visual interest without creating a dominant dark zone
• Poorly cut ovals: Prominent dark band across the center that diminishes beauty and value

No proportion measurement on a GIA report indicates bowtie severity. It has to be judged visually — in person, through high-quality photography and video, or with ASET imaging, which shows where a diamond leaks or returns light. This is why expert guidance matters when selecting ovals.

Key Proportions

Typical guideline ranges:

• Table: about 54–60%
• Depth: about 58–63%
• Polish/Symmetry: Excellent/Excellent minimum

Our Oval Standards

• ✓ Minimal bowtie verified through high-resolution imaging and in-person evaluation
• ✓ Even elliptical symmetry — even curvature, no flat spots, balanced shoulders
• ✓ GIA certified with Excellent polish and symmetry
• ✓ Expert cut evaluation by Brian Gavin for light performance beyond paper grades
• ✓ Type classification verified for significant stones

Each Shape Tells a Different Story

• Round Brilliant — Maximum brilliance; The Gavin Effect® patented cut
• Emerald Cut — Sophisticated step-cut elegance; patented light performance
• Cushion Cut — Romantic pillow shape; patented Hearts & Arrows precision
• Pear Cut — Elegant teardrop; versatile and flattering
• Radiant Cut — Brilliant fire meets geometric outline
• Princess Cut — Modern square brilliant; exceptional scintillation
• Marquise Cut — Royal heritage; maximizes carat weight appearance
• Old Mine Cut — Historic hand-cut diamonds; antique brilliance

All consultations are complimentary and without obligation. We build long-term relationships based on education, trust, and exceptional service.