Oval Cut

Modern Brilliance, Classic Elegance

The oval cut is a modified brilliant that combines the round brilliant's exceptional light performance with an elongated silhouette that appears 10-15% larger face-up than a round of equivalent carat weight. This visual efficiency, combined with brilliant-style fire and scintillation, has made the oval one of the fastest-growing shapes in the market.

Created by Russian diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan in the late 1950s, the oval was designed specifically to retain maximum weight from elongated rough crystals while delivering the optical performance of round brilliants. The result is a shape that offers exceptional value — more visual presence per carat — with light performance that rivals the round brilliant when expertly cut.

Lazare Kaplan's Innovation

Lazare Kaplan, a master cutter known as the "King of Diamonds," developed the modern oval in the late 1950s. His genius was recognizing that elongated rough — which would lose significant weight if cut into rounds — could be fashioned into ovals with minimal waste and brilliant-cut performance.

The oval gained immediate acceptance for its flattering proportions and efficient use of rough. It became a favorite for larger stones where the elongated shape provides maximum visual impact. Today, the oval has surged to become one of the most requested engagement ring shapes, driven by its flattering finger coverage and excellent light performance.

Modified Round Brilliant

The oval's 56-58 facets follow the round brilliant arrangement adapted to an elliptical outline. The faceting style is identical in principle — kite-shaped crown facets, triangular star facets, pavilion mains, and lower girdle facets — delivering the same optical phenomena: brilliance, fire, and scintillation.

Critical to oval cut quality is the evenness of the ellipse. Both halves must be perfectly symmetrical, with even curvature and no flat spots or bulges. The "shoulders" (widest points) should sit at the midpoint, creating balanced visual weight.

Managing the Oval's Primary Challenge

Like pear and marquise cuts, ovals can display a "bowtie" — a dark area across the center caused by the viewer's head blocking light from certain angles. The severity depends entirely on cutting quality:

• Well-cut ovals: Minimal bowtie that adds contrast and visual interest without creating a dominant dark zone
• Poorly cut ovals: Prominent dark band across the center that diminishes beauty and value

There is no proportion measurement on a GIA report that indicates bowtie severity. It must be evaluated visually — through high-quality photography or in-person examination. This is why expert guidance is essential when selecting ovals.

Key Proportions

• Table: 54-60% optimal
• Depth: 58-63%
• Polish/Symmetry: Excellent/Excellent minimum

Our Oval Standards

• ✓ Minimal bowtie verified through high-resolution imaging and in-person evaluation
• ✓ Perfect elliptical symmetry — even curvature, no flat spots, balanced shoulders
• ✓ GIA certified with Excellent polish and symmetry
• ✓ Expert cut evaluation by Brian Gavin for light performance beyond paper grades
• ✓ Type classification verified for significant stones

Each Shape Tells a Different Story

• Round Brilliant — Maximum brilliance; The Gavin Effect® patented cut
• Emerald Cut — Sophisticated step-cut elegance; patented light performance
• Cushion Cut — Romantic pillow shape; patented Hearts & Arrows precision
• Oval Cut — Elongated brilliance; appears larger for carat weight
• Pear Cut — Elegant teardrop; versatile and flattering
• Radiant Cut — Brilliant fire meets geometric outline
• Princess Cut — Modern square brilliant; exceptional scintillation
• Marquise Cut — Royal heritage; maximizes carat weight appearance
• Old Mine Cut — Historic hand-cut diamonds; antique brilliance

All consultations are complimentary and without obligation. We build long-term relationships based on education, trust, and exceptional service.