Marquise Cut
Commissioned by King Louis XV to mirror the lips of Madame de Pompadour — the marquise cut's elongated, boat-shaped silhouette maximizes carat weight appearance and creates the most dramatic finger presence of any diamond shape.
A Royal Commission
The marquise cut's origin is one of the most romantic in the diamond world. In the mid-18th century, King Louis XV of France commissioned a diamond cut that would mirror the perfectly shaped lips of his mistress, Jean Antoinette Poisson, the Marquise de Pompadour. The resulting elongated, pointed shape took its name from her title.
With 56-58 brilliant-style facets arranged in an elongated navette (boat-shaped) outline, the marquise maximizes carat weight appearance more than any other shape — appearing up to 15-20% larger face-up than a round brilliant of equivalent weight. This visual efficiency, combined with dramatic presence and royal heritage, gives the marquise a distinctive position in the diamond world.
Facet Structure
The marquise's 56-58 brilliant-style facets follow the same arrangement principles as the round brilliant, adapted to the elongated navette outline. The two pointed ends require precise facet alignment to ensure symmetry and prevent light leakage.
Critical symmetry requirements:
- Both points must be perfectly aligned along the center axis
- Both wings (curved sides) must be mirror images of each other
- The belly (widest point) should sit exactly at the center
- Both points should be equally sharp and well-defined
The Bowtie Effect
The marquise is the most susceptible of all shapes to the bowtie effect — a dark area across the center caused by the viewer's head blocking light. Due to its extreme length-to-width ratio, some degree of bowtie is nearly universal.
The key is severity: a minimal bowtie adds depth and character; a severe bowtie dominates the stone. Expert cutting minimizes bowtie through precise pavilion angles and facet alignment.
Key Proportions
- Table: 53-60% optimal
- Depth: 58-64%
- Polish/Symmetry: Excellent/Excellent (symmetry critical due to two points)
Classic Marquise
The traditional proportion. Dramatic elongation with balanced brilliance. The most popular ratio.
Very Elongated
Maximum finger coverage and dramatic impact. Requires superb cutting to manage bowtie. Striking presence.
Wider Marquise
Fuller, less extreme outline. Slightly more bowtie resistance. Some prefer this for a less dramatic look.
Largest Face-Up Appearance
No shape appears larger for its carat weight. A 1-carat marquise can rival the visual presence of a 1.5-carat round. Maximum value for visual impact.
Historical Significance
Commissioned by a French king, the marquise carries aristocratic heritage that no other shape can claim. A conversation piece with genuine historical provenance.
Maximum Finger Flattery
The most elongating of all shapes. Creates the appearance of longer, more slender fingers. Dramatic and distinctive on any hand.
Uncommon & Memorable
Less common than rounds, cushions, or ovals — the marquise stands out as a distinctive choice that signals confidence and individuality.
Our Marquise Standards
- ✓ Minimal bowtie verified through imaging — the most critical evaluation factor
- ✓ Perfect bilateral symmetry — point alignment, wing balance, belly centering
- ✓ Point integrity — both points sharp, well-defined, and free of chips
- ✓ Protective setting guidance — V-prongs at both points are mandatory
- ✓ GIA certified with Excellent symmetry
- ✓ Minimal bowtie verified through imaging — the most critical evaluation factor
- ✓ Perfect bilateral symmetry — point alignment, wing balance, belly centering
- ✓ Point integrity — both points sharp, well-defined, and free of chips
- ✓ Protective setting guidance — V-prongs at both points are mandatory
- ✓ GIA certified with Excellent symmetry
Each Shape Tells a Different Story
- Round Brilliant — Maximum brilliance; The Gavin Effect® patented cut
- Emerald Cut — Sophisticated step-cut elegance; patented light performance
- Cushion Cut — Romantic pillow shape; patented Hearts & Arrows precision
- Oval Cut — Elongated brilliance; appears larger for carat weight
- Pear Cut — Elegant teardrop; versatile and flattering
- Radiant Cut — Brilliant fire meets geometric outline
- Princess Cut — Modern square brilliant; exceptional scintillation
- Marquise Cut — Royal heritage; maximizes carat weight appearance
- Old Mine Cut — Historic hand-cut diamonds; antique brilliance
Schedule a Private Consultation
Marquise cuts demand expert evaluation of bowtie, symmetry, and point integrity. Let us help you find a stone worthy of its royal heritage.
Schedule Your Private ConsultationAll consultations are complimentary and without obligation. We build long-term relationships based on education, trust, and exceptional service.
