Marquise Cut
Named, by long tradition, for the Marquise de Pompadour at the court of Louis XV — the marquise cut's elongated, boat-shaped outline gives one of the largest face-up appearances for its carat weight and a striking presence on the hand.
A Royal Story
The marquise has one of the most romantic origin stories in the diamond world. According to tradition, in the mid-18th century King Louis XV of France asked for a diamond shaped to recall the lips of his favourite, Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, the Marquise de Pompadour, and the elongated, pointed shape took its name from her title. The story is widely repeated but is better treated as tradition than documented history; the shape itself is also known as the navette, French for "little boat".
Cut with 56-58 brilliant-style facets in an elongated outline, the marquise spreads its weight across a long, shallow face, so it generally looks larger than a round brilliant of the same carat weight — a quality it shares with the oval and pear, its closest relatives.
Facet Structure
The marquise's 56-58 brilliant-style facets follow the same principles as the round brilliant, adapted to the elongated outline. The two pointed ends need precise facet alignment to keep the stone symmetrical and limit light leakage.
Critical symmetry requirements:
- Both points aligned along the centre axis
- Both wings (curved sides) mirror images of each other
- The belly (widest point) sitting at the centre
- Both points equally sharp and well defined
The Bowtie Effect
The marquise is among the shapes most prone to the bowtie effect — a dark band across the centre where the pavilion reflects the viewer's head instead of light. Because of its long, narrow outline, some degree of bowtie is common in marquise diamonds.
What matters is severity: a faint bowtie adds contrast and character; a heavy one dominates the stone. Careful pavilion angles and facet alignment keep it in check, and light-performance imaging such as ASET ray tracing shows it far more clearly than a photograph.
Key Proportions
Typical guideline ranges (not a laboratory standard):
- Table: 53-60%
- Depth: 58-64%
- Polish/Symmetry: Excellent/Excellent (symmetry matters more than usual because of the two points)
GIA does not assign a cut grade to fancy shapes, but it does grade polish and symmetry — see our guide to grading laboratories.
Wider Marquise
A fuller, less extreme outline, somewhat less prone to bowtie. Some prefer it for a softer look.
Classic Marquise
The traditional proportion: clear elongation with balanced brilliance.
Very Elongated
The most finger coverage and the most dramatic look. Needs superb cutting to manage bowtie.
Large Face-Up Appearance
Among the largest-looking shapes for its carat weight, because so much of the stone's weight is spread across its length.
A Story from the French Court
Its association with Louis XV and Madame de Pompadour gives the marquise a romantic history few shapes can match.
Finger Flattery
One of the most elongating shapes, it gives the appearance of longer, more slender fingers.
Uncommon & Memorable
Less common than rounds, cushions or ovals, the marquise stands out as a distinctive, individual choice.
Our Marquise Standards
- ✓ Minimal bowtie verified through imaging — the most important evaluation factor
- ✓ Bilateral symmetry — point alignment, wing balance, belly centring
- ✓ Point integrity — both points sharp, well defined and free of chips
- ✓ Protective setting guidance — V-prongs at both points strongly recommended
- ✓ GIA graded with Excellent symmetry
The two points are the stone's most exposed areas; our diamond care guide explains how to check settings and prongs over time.
Each Shape Tells a Different Story
- Round Brilliant — Maximum brilliance; The Gavin Effect® patented cut
- Emerald Cut — Sophisticated step-cut elegance; patented design
- Cushion Cut — Romantic pillow shape; patented Hearts & Arrows design
- Oval Cut — Elongated brilliance; generally looks larger for its carat weight
- Pear Cut — Elegant teardrop; versatile and flattering
- Radiant Cut — Brilliant fire meets geometric outline
- Princess Cut — Modern square brilliant; lively scintillation
- Old Mine Cut — Historic hand-cut diamonds; antique brilliance
Schedule a Private Consultation
Marquise cuts demand expert evaluation of bowtie, symmetry and point integrity. Let us help you find a stone worthy of its royal story.
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